Some would say that patchouli is the most distinctively fragranced herb in the botanical kingdom. The first whiff of its rich, exotic scent never fails to become fixed forever in the olfactory memory.

The plant that produces this remarkable aroma is a tropical member of the lamiaceae family. Distant relatives include lavender, rosemary and many other herb plants associated with more temperate regions. Patchouli seems to have moved south and suffused itself in the mysterious aromas of a dark and steamy jungle while retaining a hint of the sunny, herbal fragrances of its northern Mediterranean cousins.

Patchouli was first described by botanists in the Philippines in 1845. Today growing interest in its fragrance has led to patchouli's widespread cultivation throughout tropical Asia.

True patchouli has hairy stems, flowers only reluctantly, and is usually propagated by cuttings. A second species, Pogostemon heyneanus, known as Java patchouli, has smooth stems and flowers. Java patchouli has an inferior aroma and may show up as an adulterant in the whole leaf form or the distilled oil. Plants available from herb nurseries labeled as Pogostemon cablin often turn out to be Pogostemon heyneanus.

Patchouli has long been used as a moth repellent in Asia. This practice may have been responsible for its introduction to Europe in the early 1800s. At that time imported goods like silk shawls and India ink arrived redolent with the smell of patchouli in European ports. In time the presence of the aroma came to be regarded as an indicator of genuine oriental goods. Around 1844 the first shipment of dried patchouli leaves reached London and savvy (or sneaky!) local manufacturers began using the plant to scent their own versions of expensive imported goods.

It wasn't long before patchouli oil's remarkable staying power made it an important fixative ingredient in the manufacture of fine perfumes and cosmetics. A fixative is a substance that combines well with the other ingredients in a blend, slowing down the evaporation of the fragrance and making it last longer when applied as a personal essence. The increased demand helped create an industry of patchouli farming and distillation in tropical Asia that persists to the present.

Patchouli is usually grown on small forest plots by individual farmers who harvest and dry the leaves, then sell them to distilleries throughout the growing region. The still operators buy many lots of dried leaves and combine them into one steam distillation, the results of which may then be combined with successive distillations until they've obtained sufficient quantities of oil.

Newly distilled patchouli oil has a fresh, green, slightly harsh aroma. As the oil ages it mellows considerably, becoming sweeter and more balsamic. Patchouli is one of very few oils that, like fine wine, improve with age. High quality patchouli oils emit a suave, fruity, wine-like top note when uncapped. Other oils that age well are sandalwood and vetiver, both of which blend quite nicely with patchouli.

Adulteration of patchouli is less common than with other essential oils. The relative ease of its cultivation and generous yield of oil (up to 3.5% under ideal conditions) substantially removes the temptation for unscrupulous suppliers to adulterate it. (In contrast a product like rose oil yields just 0.2% essential oil.) Heavy cedarwood or spicy clove-like notes may indicate that patchouli oil has been tampered with, usually as a result of a bad crop year or when demand outweighs supply.

Patchouli is most often used in aromatherapy. The dried leaves and stems are employed in traditional Chinese medicine to normalize the flow and balance of the life force known as qi (or chi).

An aromatherapy blend inspired by the traditional Chinese use can evoke a feeling of gentle clarity and inspire the harmonious flow of emotional energy. It uses oils with balancing and mildly energizing aromas.

Harmonious Energy Flow Blend:

Add three drops of this blend to 1 ounce vegetable oil and use as a massage oil.

In aromatherapy patchouli is often used as a relaxant. The warmth and depth of its aroma make it comforting and relaxing. Patchouli's relaxing attributes, coupled with its rich and exotic nature, have led to its inclusion in sensual and amorous blends, particularly appropriate for products like massage oil. For these applications patchouli combines well with ylang ylang, jasmine, sandalwood, and rose. Let your senses and personal tastes guide you in creating a concentrated blend of these sensual oils. Or use patchouli alone as a sensually evocative and deeply relaxing fragrance. Patchouli's distinctive scent can always be relied upon to evoke a marked aromatherapeutic response.